Hardwood flooring is a beautiful and unique product of nature, which is characterized by distinctive variations in grain and colours. These natural variations in colour and grain are not flaws, but are a part of the natural beauty and uniqueness of hardwood flooring. These inherent variations should be expected and serve to enhance the natural beauty and enduring charm. Our flooring are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%.
The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type.
It is necessary that the flooring to be laid is left to acclimatise in the packaging (at room temperature) for at least 48-72 hours, lie horizontal and flat – at the ideal relative humidity level of 45%.
The room should be dry, if the building is a new building with a concrete floor, wait until the floor is completely dry (Please check the drying time information with the supplier if not sure about it).
The flooring should be laid at a minimum room temperature of 15ºC and a maximum of 22ºC.
The greatest possible care is taken to produce your floor. However, we advise you to check the boards for visible defects such as damage, deviations in shape or dimensions. No complaints regarding these visible defects will be considered after the boards have been laid. Make sure you have good lighting while laying the floor.


• The consumer and installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality. If the flooring is not acceptable, please contact us immediately.
• Before beginning installation of any hardwood flooring product, the installer must determine that the environment of the job site and the condition and type of the subfloor involved are acceptable, ensuring it meets or exceeds all requirements which are stipulated in the installation instructions which follow. We declines any responsibility for job failure resulting from or associated with inappropriate or improperly prepared subfloor or job site environment deficiencies.
• Prior to installation, the installer/owner has final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and factory finish. The installer must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with deficiencies.
• The use of stain, filler or putty stick for the correction of defects during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
• Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture or factory finish, the installer should not use the piece.
• When our hardwood flooring is ordered, a 5% allowance factor, depending on layout, must be added to the actual square footage amount needed. (Diagonal installations and/or board width of 5" and over may require up to a 10 % allowance factor.)
• Please note that our engineered floors must be installed in environments of 40% to 55% relative humidity and temperature 15-22 ºC to prevent possible damage not covered by the warranty. Installation of a humidifier or dehumidifier may be necessary. The floor is designed to perform in an environmentally controlled structure. Warranty exclusions are, but not limited to, surface checking resulting from low humidity, mildew or discolouration resulting from extreme sub-floor moisture.


Our engineered flooring can be laid over a variety of surfaces (concrete, plywood, joists) and even over existing level wooden floorboards. Sub floor must be dry, level and with good load-bearing properties.
Moisture content of the subfloor should be 9% (with a tolerance of 2%). You should first check that there are no loose pieces, should any be found, these need to be screwed down. If the base is concrete, its humidity should be less than 3% and the mortar should be evenly set. If the floor is to be laid in a new building, the rooms should be enclosed with the windows closed. All “wet” trades should be finished and the relative humidity in the premises should be between 40% and 55% - the humidity of the plasterwork and paintwork should be less than 5%. Our engineered flooring is generally compatible with the most common water based under floor heating systems (check with your supplier for further details).


1. Start with a clean, level floor which has the appropriate humidity for installation. To improve sound insulation and enhance walking comfort, a foam underlay should be laid at right angles to the direction of the floor being laid.
2. If laying over a concrete base, it is recommended that a polythene membrane* (Must be damp proved) is laid first and the moisture content of the concrete must measure no more than 8-10%. *only applicable to floated floor installations
3. For best effect, boards should be laid lengthwise pointing towards the incoming light (e.g. from a window). Plan to lay the first two rows of boards from left to right, grooved edge to the wall, with spacers between boards and the wall as well as both ends of each row. Allow for a minimum of 14mm Expansion gap around the outside of the room. 7.5 M is the maximum width one piece floor. If the wooden floor goes wider than 7.5M, extra expansion gap should be applied for all sides.
4. If the wall is not straight or is uneven, scribe and cut the boards to the contour of the wall. To complete the first row, measure the length of the last board (including the spacer) and saw to size.
5. If the off cut from this board is 40cm or more it should be used to begin the next row – if you do not have an off cut begin the next row by cutting a new board into two uneven lengths and use one to start the second row.
6. Use a plumb line to ensure that both rows are straight – when satisfied proceed to glue.
7. Apply PVA adhesive to the tongue and end butts – it is important to use adequate adhesive. Using the tapping block and/or pull iron, press the joints together – allow the first two rows to settle and adhesive to dry before proceeding further.
8. The rest of the floor can now be glued and laid.
9. Ensure that the boards are all laid straight and even, leaving spacers at all edges (these will later be removed and the space created covered by skirting and/or beading).
10. It is usual for there not to be space to fit a full width board at the last row so it will be necessary to make a longitudinal cut – the cutting of this last board may be helped by simply using another board as a scribe and cutting guide.
11. Press the last board into place with the pull iron remembering to put a spacer between the board and the wall.
12. Allow 12 hours for the glue to set. Remove all spacers to leave the expansion free.
13. The skirting board which covers the expansion space and gives the finishing touch to the installation, can now be fixed in place (to the wall only and not to the floor).